While investigating Bug 26128, I discovered a bug in Apache httpd's mod_cgi (https://bz.apache.org/bugzilla/show_bug.cgi?id=64709), which means that Apache's TimeOut directive does not work correctly in mod_cgi. In practice, CGI scripts in Apache httpd get 2 timeouts, which means that they effectively get 600 seconds rather than the default 300 seconds (as defined in the configuration of the Debian package apache2). In order for Plack Koha to have the same timeout duration as the buggy mod_cgi, we should set "ProxyTimeout 600" in the Apache Plack configuration. This should harmonize performance expectations, so that CGI is not chosen over Plack unnecesssarily.
Note that I've reproduced the mod_cgi problem in koha-testing-docker, which uses apache2 2.4.25. I've also reproduced it in the latest Apache httpd, which is 2.4.46. So everyone will be affected the same by this I reckon.